Children grow fast, so spending on more expensive sustainable clothes for them can feel more like a waste than a wise investment. But two Irish childrenswear brands are making the case for buying better – whatever the age range – with hard-wearing, thoughtfully designed pieces that are made to last and be passed on.
Writer and illustrator Ciara Tinney and her business partner, costume designer Edel McAvoy, founded Wildkind when Tinney first became a mum. “With little people in the house, so much thought goes into what you’re consuming – what you’re eating, watching, reading and putting on their bodies. You cannot really consciously curate one without the others.”
Tinney, who grew up in Co Fermanagh and lives in Belfast, and McAvoy launched a collection of simple gender-fluid pieces in muted tones made from end-of-roll Irish linen sourced at local mills. Each item was designed to grow with a child for three-plus years by incorporating clever design features, such as extra leg-lengths, elasticated waistbands and extendable sleeves. “Our Taoide [tide] dress is designed to fit ages four to 10, so my youngest daughter can wear it as well as my eldest,” says Tinney. “I’m a mom, and I know how expensive life is.”
This commitment to longevity and minimising waste ensures that leftover materials from the collection are repurposed rather than discarded. The pair use handpicked scraps of linen and remnants from the collection for pieces such as its Saor ó Dhramhaíl (zero waste) jacket, while the Starling Patch is a hand-painted quilted square designed to be added to something in need of repair to prolong the life of the garment without compromising the integrity of the Wildkind aesthetic.
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This waste not, want not philosophy is inspired by Tinney’s grandmother. “My mom was one of 11 children,” explains Tinney. “There were no new summer dresses until the bag of flour was used and then a dress was made from the bag. I love that story. Even though there was real hardship, I just love that my grandmother took such care not to waste anything.”
Versatility is also built into each design. The Bogha Báistí (rainbow) Collar, for instance, is reversible, offering two distinct looks in one piece. It’s also oversized, so wearable for many years. Adding the Cloud Cuffs to a dress or sweater instantly reimagines it and the Caipín (crest of a wave) Collar can be worn as a collar, wrapped as a belt or draped crossbody to change a silhouette.
Storytelling is as integral to Wildkind as sustainability. “We’ve lost so much heritage in terms of how we dress. People in five different cities could all be wearing the same thing. Wildkind is about awakening our senses and connecting to the wild to nurture a sense of self and a sense of place,” says the mother of three. Tinney handpaints each garment with motifs evocative of the surrounding landscape, while McAvoy uses free-motion embroidery to add a tactile finish that echoes the organic forms and textures of the natural world.
UPA kidswear is another brand rooted in storytelling, sustainability and versatility. Founded by Lithuanian-born, Meath-based Vaida Rasciute, the brand creates seasonless clothes from Irish and Lithuanian linen, which are each made to order. “I don’t design according to seasons,” explains Rasciute. “And if a customer spots an old dress on Instagram that isn’t on the website, I can make it for them. I often revisit past designs in new collections to encourage repeat wear and give existing pieces a longer life.”
Like Tinney, Rasciute draws inspiration from the women who came before her, particularly her mother. “My mother is a very stylish and soulful grandmother to my daughter and she’s my biggest influencer. She knit a dress for my daughter when she was a year old out of silk and mohair wool, which people were constantly asking about, and that’s when I first thought of setting up a childrenswear brand.”
That was 10 years ago. Since then, UPA has been featured in Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar, and it won the prestigious Best Brand Pitti Bimbo 2020 Award; Pitti Bimbo is a premier children’s fashion and lifestyle trade show held biannually in Florence. Rasciute is influenced by heritage and nature, infusing her childrenswear with Lithuanian and Irish influences – evocations of local landscapes and motifs from Lithuanian folklore and culture are imaginatively woven throughout each collection.
Linen is Rasciute’s favourite material because it’s kind to people and to nature. “It’s such a beautiful fabric with amazing qualities that’s great for wearing in winter too. I think you can feel a different kind of energy from it,” she says. Every item is conceived with versatility and wearability in mind. “I introduce features such as exchangeable bows so that one can be swapped out for another in a different colour. You don’t need to buy a whole new dress; you can just change the bow for a different look.”
Some pieces can also be worn back to front, offering two equally considered looks. The Carmen Blouse, for example, features natural shell buttons that can be worn discreetly at the back or as a button-front detail.
This year, Rasciute plans to introduce a new accessories line of ribbons and flowers, designed to be styled across dresses, tops and belts. “This will allow each child to create their own unique look at home,” she says. For both UPA and Wildkind, practicality and playfulness go hand in hand.
