Why are some wines from the most famous regions so disappointing?

I have tried wines from some of the most famous regions but frequently I have found them very disappointing. Where am I going wrong?

Wine labels are complicated, with hundreds of different regions, grape varieties, and other nomenclature. No wonder we are drawn to the familiar names in the hope of finding a nice bottle of wine.

Being able to put a well-known name on a wine label gives a producer a significant advantage. The appellation system in France and its equivalents elsewhere are often seen as a guarantee of quality. In reality, it is less about excellence and more a very sophisticated marketing machine. Instead of being one of many producers trying to sell their wine under their own name, they can attach Sancerre, Rioja, Chianti, and gain instant recognition throughout the wine world – and higher prices too. Some of the wines are great, and others can be disappointing.

Price can provide a useful indication of quality. If a producer is making high-quality wine from a renowned region, it is unlikely they would sell it at a knock-down price. In areas such as Bordeaux and Rioja, which have expanded significantly in recent decades, both price and quality can vary widely. For example, you can find a Rioja Reserva for as little as €8.50 or as much as €50 a bottle, and sometimes even more. Wines from Bordeaux can vary even more in price.

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Most regions have tasting panels that are supposed to approve every wine before it is permitted to use the name. If so, a lot of them have taste issues. Thanks to modern technology, even the least expensive wines are rarely undrinkable, but they certainly are not representative of what made the region famous in the first place.

I would suggest that you go into your local wine shop and ask for some advice; they can point you in the direction of a few producers whose wines you will enjoy. Be prepared to pay €15 or more as this means the winemaker should receive enough money to make a decent wine. But with well-known names you might have to pay a little more.

A good retailer can also will also show you some less expensive, exciting wines from more obscure regions that offer fantastic value for money.